Cellulose building thermal insulation is a recycled product made from recovered newsprint and other paper (wood fiber) feedstocks. Paper, especially newsprint, represents
one of the largest single components of the residential waste stream, and a major disposal
problem for communities throughout the nation. Insulating a typical 1,500 square foot
ranch-style home with cellulose insulation productively recycles as much newsprint as an
individual will consume in 40 years.

If America’s new homes were insulated with cellulose, over 3.2 million tons of waste newsprint could be removed from the waste stream every year and put to productive use conserving vital energy resources. This projection is based on 1.5 million new homes with an average area of 1,500 square feet, insulated to R-30 in the attics and R-13 in the side walls.

If more stringent insulation standards, such as those of the Model Energy Code, were followed more recyclable material would be removed from the waste stream.

Source: www.Cellulose.org

Read full study Here [PDF]

New figures from the Energy Saving Trust (EST) reveal which areas of the UK have the best and worst levels of home insulation, as a result of the government’s energy-saving scheme.

Among the areas with the highest levels of insulated homes are Kirklees and Isle of Anglesey, while the bottom five areas are all in greater London.

Under the Carbon Emissions Reduction Target (CERT) scheme, the six largest energy suppliers must meet targets of helping customers meet the cost of energy-saving measures in their home, including loft and wall insulation.

Saving energy

Which? energy expert James Tallack says: ‘Installing loft and cavity wall insulation can save up to £160 per year on an average household bill as well as helping to reduce carbon emissions. So it’s vital that energy suppliers deliver on their obligation to ensure affordable insulation is accessible to as many households as possible.

‘Which? research has found that there are big differences in prices being charged by energy suppliers for insulation. For example, loft insulation from Scottish and Southern Energy currently costs £144, whereas British Gas charges £274 for the same work. And local suppliers could be as cheap as £80. You can get insulation through any company so shop around for the best deal and don’t assume the supplier you’re with at the moment is the cheapest.’

Best and worst insulation rates

The figures revealed for the first time by the EST show how many homes have had insulation professionally installed in the first two years of CERT, since 2008.

The top five areas, listed by local government and parliamentary constituency, with the highest percentage of housing stock insulated since 2008 were: Kirklees 22.5%, Isle of Anglesey 18%, Carmarthenshire 14.6%, Wyre 13.4% and South Ribble 13.3%.

The worst boroughs were all in London with Westminster coming in bottom with just 0.2% of housing stick having had insulation professionally installed. Others areas languishing at the bottom of the table were Kensington and Chelsea 0.5%, Tower Hamlets 0.5%, Hammersmith and Fulham 0.7% and Southwark 0.7%.

Pressure on energy suppliers

In June 2010 the government extended the CERT scheme to 2012, promising that a further 3.5 million homes would receive home insulation.

Energy and climate change secretary Chris Huhn acknowledged that some types of houses are more difficult to insulate than others, but ultimately wants to see more being done by energy suppliers.

Speaking in response to the EST figures he said: ‘I make no apologies for turning up the heat on energy companies, demanding that they work harder to make more homes warmer and cheaper to run.’

The government plans to reform its energy saving scheme in 2012 by introducing a new Green Deal to help households save on their energy bills.

Source: www.Which.co.uk

Be sure you that install a tight-sealing ground-moisture barrier before you insulate the crawl space. A ground-moisture barrier is a sheet of heavy polyethylene plastic that covers the ground, preventing moisture from rising out of the ground and into the crawl space. The ground-moisture barrier is designed to prevent moisture from entering the crawl space, which is a far better strategy than hoping that moisture is removed by foundation vents. Foundation vents aren’t very effective at removing crawl space moisture according to field observations and building science reports.

If you decide to insulate the foundation walls of your crawl space, you should close off the foundation vents, at least during the winter. Check with a local code official or heating technician before closing the vents, especially if a combustion appliance is located in the crawl space. The vents might supply combustion air to the appliance. Sealed-combustion (also called direct vent) appliances draw combustion air from outdoors and would eliminate this concern.

It is always better to insulate the exterior of masonry walls but that involves digging for existing crawl spaces so most people choose to insulate the foundation walls on the inside. Foam sheets are the best insulation choice because of their moisture resistance but faced fiberglass is also a common insulation solution.

Whether you insulate the floor or foundation wall, you should insulate the rim joist (also called: band joist) at the same time. Although fiberglass is most commonly used, foam or a combination of foam insulation and fiberglass is better because moisture sometimes migrates behind the fiberglass and condenses on the cold rim joist, causing damage from mold or rot. Spraying polyurethane foam in the rim-joist area is now a common practice.

Some building inspectors may insist that foam be covered by an ignition barrier whenever installed toward the interior of the crawl space.

The insulation is still incomplete if only the foundation walls are insulated and not the floor above the crawl space. In cold climates, the ground floor of the crawl space should also be insulated to complete the insulation layer around the home. Fiberglass blankets faced with a vapor-permeable facing such as MemBrain® is the best choice for insulating over an airtight ground moisture barrier. The roll seams should be taped together with constriction tape to prevent air convection around the insulation.

The recent trend toward conditioned crawl spaces with supply and return air to heat and cool them is an unfortunate development. It is another band-aid approach to solving moisture problems without considering the home’s energy efficiency. New home buyers would choose shallow frost-protected concrete slabs for foundations. Crawl spaces, if used for new home foundations, should include drainage, exterior waterproofing, and airtight ground moisture barriers.

Two inch polystyrene insulation on basement walls. Reinforced polyethylene ground moisture barrier is sealed at seams to prevent mold. Installing fiberglass insulation over the ground-moisture barrier is an excellent idea in cold climates if the floor above the crawl space isn’t insulated.

Source: www.SMI.biz

What is Cellulose Insulation Made Of

If you have every done your own insulation work, you know the distinct downside of fiberglass insulation. Regardless of how it is packaged, it is going to get on you and in the air. At best, it will simply set your skin to itching for hours. In worst case scenarios, it gets into your lungs while you are huffing and puffing, causing coughing and who knows what nasty long-term effects. Cellulose insulation is the answer to fiberglass insulation and an amazing product.

Cellulose insulation abandons the strategy of using fiberglass. Instead, cellulose insulation is made of shredded newspapers. If you recently purchased a home that has cellulose insulation or are going to use it in the future, you may be spraying some of your old newspapers into your walls and ceiling.

Cellulose insulation consists almost completely of recycled newspapers. Some manufacturers, however, will also add a small amount of shredded cardboard. To make it stick together with more efficiency, most will also add a binding, non-toxic chemical mixture. To keep the cellulose insulation from bursting into flames, it is also treated with fire retardants.

Cellulose insulation is primary a spray on product. It can be sprayed on wet, but is almost always applied in a dry form.

What is cellulose insulation made of? That thing you read the news on every morning. No, not the toilet.

Source: www.SolarCompanies.com

The NRDC has concluded the following:

• Cellulose insulation manufactured from recycled paper is the least polluting and most energy efficient insulation.
• Cellulose has the highest post-consumer recycled content. The fiberglass industry averages 35% recycled glass, while the cellulose industry averages a minimum of 75% recycled content.
• It takes more than 10 times as much energy to produce fiberglass insulation as cellulose insulation.
• Due to air circulation and natural convection, the R-value of blown-in fiberglass insulation decreases by as much as 50% as the temperature drops from 45 degrees F to 18 degrees F.
• Cellulose has better resistance to air flow and prevents the upward movement of air caused by temperature differences (the R-value of cellulose actually improves during cold weather).
• Substantial and well-documented public health threats are associated with fiberglass.
• No adverse health effects from cellulose insulation have been identified.

Cellulose is non-toxic. Biologically, cellulose is innocuous.
~ Dr. Arthur Furst, Toxicologist

• Cellulose that has been properly installed in your walls will not settle.
• Cellulose is non-corrosive to steel, copper and aluminum.
• Cellulose will not lose it’s energy saving abilities over time.
• Cellulose will not rot, decay or mildew, and it does not support fungus or mold growth.

Different insulations are made from fundamentally different materials. Tests at Oak Ridge and Brookhaven National Laboratories and the University of Illinois reveal that insulations with the same laboratory R-values do not perform equally in real homes. Researchers found that the effective R-value of blown fiberglass plunges during cold weather, while the effective R-value of cellulose actually increases. The researchers also discovered that summer temperatures offer no relief for fiberglass, since its effective R-value withers then, too. Utility bills were 32% lower in the cellulose insulated building. Leominster Housing Authority

Cellulose helps keep your home warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer, blocks air infiltration, and saves you money!

Do Different Installation Methods Make a Difference?

The walls, ceilings, and floors of your home are full of odd shaped cavities and obstacles like plumbing, air ducts, and wiring. For your insulation to work effectively, it must completely fill around these obstructions without gaps or voids.

Installation is critical in determining how insulation performs in your home. How well does it fit in different size wall cavities and around countless obstacles? Is it cut and patched in? Or is it custom fit?

Cellulose insulation is sprayed or blown into walls, conforming to your home and surrounding you and your family with a seamless insulation system. Fiberglass batts, on the other hand, are cut and pieced together, leaving gaps, voids & areas of compression.

A Difference You Will See, Feel, and Enjoy

Benefits of Cellulose Insulation: Installing cellulose insulation in your existing home is one of the best decisions you can make for yourself and your family. Walls are fully and tightly insulated, forming a monolithic thermal barrier. No more gaps. No more voids. No more drafts. Just years of comfort.

Getting What You Paid For

Benefits of Cellulose Insulation:Tests conducted by a fiberglass manufacturer reveal that the actual performance of batts can be 14% to 45% less than their labeled R-value when gaps and voids associated with normal batt installation are considered. With cellulose insulation, you receive the insulation performance you paid for.

In December 1989 and January 1990 the University of Colorado at Denver School of Architecture and Planning studied the energy conservation efficiency of two test buildings that differed only in the insulation systems that had been installed.

Building “A” was insulated with 5.5 inches of sprayed-in cellulose in the walls and R-30 of loose-fill cellulose in the ceiling. Building “B” received R-19 unfaced fiberglass batts in the walls and R-30 kraft-faced batts in the ceiling.

Over the two-month period a number of different tests and measurements were performed.

Here’s what the University researchers learned.

• In spite of the fact that tests showed Building “B” was about 12% tighter than Building “A” in the uninsulated state, after insulation was installed building “A” was far tighter than “B”. Calculations showed that cellulose tightened the building 36% to 38% more than fiberglass.
• An overnight heat loss test revealed that after nine hours (midnight to 9 a.m.), the cellulose-insulated building was 7 degrees F warmer than the fiberglass building.
• Most significantly, after three weeks of monitoring the cellulose-insulated building had used 26.4% less heat than the fiberglass building.

In their statement of conclusions the researchers note that results suggest cellulose performs as much as 38% better than fiberglass. The performance advantage of cellulose in temperate climates appears to be about 26%, and the report projects that “this benefit would become more significant in more severe climates.”

Cellulose insulation benefits not covered by the University of Colorado study include:

• Cellulose contains more than 75% recycled material. In accordance with EPA Guideline 40 CFR Part 248 it is the preferred (and in some cases required) building thermal insulation for projects involving federal funds.
• Since production of cellulose requires much less energy than mineral fiber insulation, which is made in gas-fired furnaces, and foam plastics, which are petrochemicals, the “embodied” energy in cellulose is much lower per “R” of insulating value than other materials. From the national perspective these savings at the production stage must be added to the superiority of cellulose as an insulator.

If you’re serious about saving money heating and cooling your home, about recycling and responsible use of resources, and about saving energy for our country the only insulation to seriously consider is cellulose.

Standards
Cellulose insulation is covered by the most comprehensive legal and voluntary standards of any insulation material. To be sold at all cellulose insulation must meet the requirements of the Consumer Product Safety Commission Safety Standard 16 CFR Part 1209. Most cellulose producers adhere to the much more stringent and comprehensive American Society for Testing and Materials Standard C-739 for loose-fill cellulose insulation and C-1149 for self-supporting spray-applied cellulose insulation. The Federal Trade Commission R-Value Rule applies to cellulose — as it does to all residential thermal insulation.

A number of qualified independent product testing laboratories have cellulose insulation certification programs to assure contractors and consumers that the material they buy and install meets or exceeds government and industry standards. The National Association of Home Builders National Research Center certifies the quality and performance of cellulose insulation.

The labels of underwriters Laboratories, the United States Testing Company, or other NAVLAP-approved laboratories, or the seal of the NAHB National Research Center are reliable indicators of safe, effective cellulose insulation.

If you want insulation that is best for the nation,
for the environment, and for your checkbook,
choose CELLULOSE!

Scientists, engineers, and contractors have realized for many years that the most commonly-used building insulation materials are really not the best insulators. Now this “conventional wisdom” of energy conservation has been confirmed and quantified through scholarly research.

Source: www.HomeInsulation.com

The U-value rating indicates the overall heat flow between air on the warm side and air on the cold side of a wall, floor or ceiling, which is insulated with a given material. The lower the U-value, the more insulated a unit is against heat transmission.

The R-value measures the thermal resistance of the material. It indicates the total resistance of a material to the passage of heat or cold. The higher the R-value, the more effective its insulation properties. The R-value is equal to the U-value divided into 1 (R = 1/U).

The K-value is the measure of heat conductivity of a material. It is the equivalent of the U-value per square inch of thickness of the material. That is, the measure of the amount of heat, in BTUs per hour, that will be transmitted through one square foot of material that is one inch thick to cause a temperature change of one degree Fahrenheit from one side of the material to the other. As with the U-value, the lower the K-value for a material, the better it insulates. If the K-value of the material is known, the R-value per inch can be determined by diving 1 by the K-value (R-value per inch = 1/K value).

Building codes set minimum R-values for insulation in various regions, or thermal zones, in the U.S.

Source: www.totalhomeinspection.com

Nobody likes to feel uncomfortably cold in their own home. While the start of the season may have you feeling like a few extra sweaters will get you through, by the time the middle of the winter season kicks in, freezing in your own home can get very tiresome.

What roofing insulation will do is provide your home with that ever essential protective barrier that you need in order to prevent the natural occurrence of transfer.

Transfer, which is simply a state of natural phenomenon, happens when cold air and warm air mix. We see it in weather patterns all the time. It also happens on a smaller, less aggressive scale inside the home when you are not well insulated against the elements. Wind, in particular, has a way of sneaking in through the roof. The cold wind then runs directly into the warm air your heating system is putting into the home. It has no choice but to move downward.

This is why you can feel cold when sitting in certain areas of your home. Whether you’re just trying to watch TV or you’re lying in bed, when you don’t have adequate roofing insulation on a windy winter night, you can sometimes literally feel the wind inside your home. We refer to this as a drafty house, and we tend to equate such drafts with older homes. Yet the same thing can happen whether your home was built 100 years ago or just last year.

The difference is usually that older homes have a much more obvious draft that can be felt while newer homes tend to have higher heating bills than necessary.

Once you have installed the insulation correctly you will find that those drafts are no longer the main source of discomfort. It is possible that you also need to insulate your windows or doorways a bit better in order to stop all drafting. However, the main element is the roof. A roof without adequate insulation is like leaving the windows cracked all year long.

It is really not all that difficult to install the insulation in a manner that will help protect your home, as well as your wallet, from those winter time problems.

An unexpected benefit is that you will also experience better and more efficient cooling during the warmer weather. We just don’t notice the summer time drafts in the same way because warm air tends to stay higher in the home and doesn’t cause the same discomfort when it’s present. Instead, you just end up with higher cooling costs.

The need for roofing insulation is generally not a big mystery. We all know when our homes aren’t well suited for maintaining an energy efficient and comfortable environment. Thus, in order to make sure we are getting the most from our heating and air conditioning systems, we have to be proactive and ensure that our homes are well insulated.

Source: www.totallyinsulated.co.uk

Insulators can be of several types. Thermal insulators slow down the transfer of heat energy, acoustic insulators reduce the flow of sound and electrical insulators prevent the flow of electrical energy.

Materials like fiberglass, rock wool and slag wool are widely used by the insulation industry. A large variety of materials may be used to make the insulators. These include organic, inorganic, rigid, soft, fibrous or granular materials. Generally, organic insulators are produced from petrochemicals and recycled plastic, while inorganic insulators are made from recycled glass and furnace slag.

An interesting research revealed that the insulation industry is among the leading industries in the U.S. It not only strengthens the U.S. economy and increases monetary savings for consumers, but also helps improve the state of the global environment.

The energy savings resulting from good insulation add up to big dollar savings. Interestingly, current insulation levels save U.S. homeowners approximately $74 billion dollars in energy costs each year, or an average of $780 per household. Without insulation, homeowners in the U.S. typically spend about $2,000 on energy each year; whereas, with the use of insulators, they spend an average of only $1,200. Current insulation levels have helped cut residential energy bills by forty per cent. Commercial building owners are also saving money on their heating and cooling bills by over $9.6 billion dollars a year nationwide, or an average of $2,100 a year per building.

Though existing insulation is saving enormous amounts of energy and pollution, there remains a substantial potential for cost-effective investments in building and industrial insulation. Residential buildings, commercial buildings and industrial plants, which are insulated with proper protocols, not only save energy but also help avoid a substantial amount of air pollution as well.

Source: www.Ezinearticles.com

Building occupants, certain appliances, plants, and plumbing equipment generate moisture that is carried in the air as vapor. It is important to control water vapor movement in homes. A vapor retarder helps prevent water vapor from condensing to liquid water within the structure. Liquid water can accumulate inside exterior walls and in roof and attic spaces. If enough water is present, wood rot and decay can cause significant damage. The kraft facing on insulation is a vapor retarder. It can reduce moisture movement through your walls, floors, and ceilings. Call the local building permitting office to find out about the local building codes and practices with regard to the need for vapor retarders.

On What Side Should the Vapor Retarder be Installed?

In areas where the climate is cold in the winter, the vapor retarder should be installed inward toward the warm living space — or on the warm side in winter. In humid climates or areas where there is extensive use of air-conditioning, if a vapor retarder is required, it should be installed on the exterior side of the wall.

Types of Vapor Retarders

Any material that has a perm rating of 1 or less is considered to be an adequate vapor retarder for residential construction.  (A perm rating is a measure of the diffusion of water vapor through a material.) The table below shows the perm rating of some common building materials that are consistent with the ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals and other industry sources.

When is a Vapor Reatrder Required?

The latest research on moisture performance of walls and vapor retarders has brought a greater understanding of how moisture moves through walls and where vapor retarders or needed. This research has significantly changed the vapor retarder requirements in the building codes. The 2009 editions of the International Code Council (ICC) building codes are summarized below:

The International Residential Code (IRC) defines vapor retarders as Class I, II or III based on how permeable they are to water vapor, the lower the permeability – the less water vapor that will pass through the vapor retarder.

• Class I – Very low permeability vapor retarders – rated at 0.1 perms or less. Sheet polyethylene (visqueen) or unperforated aluminum foil (FSK) are Class I vapor retarders.
• Class II – Low permeability vapor retarders – rated greater than 0.1 perms and less than or equal to 1.0 perms. The kraft facing on batts qualify as a Class II vapor retarder.
• Class III – Medium permeability vapor retarders – rated greater than 1.0 perms and less than or equal to 10 perms. Latex or enamel paint qualify as Class III vapor retarders.

Vapor Retarders in Cold Climate Zones (5, 6, 7 and Marine 4)

The International Residential Code (IRC) requires either a Class I or II vapor retarder on the interior side of frame walls in climate zones: 5, 6, 7, 8 and marine 4 – (refer to the climate zone map below.) A vapor retarder is not required for basement walls or on any portion of the wall that is below ground or on walls made of materials that can’t be damaged by moisture or by freezing.

Class III vapor retarders can be used on the interior side of the wall in the following climate zones when any one of the conditions in the table below apply:

* Vented Claddings include vinyl lap or horizontal aluminum siding installed over a weather-resistive barrier, typically housewrap or 15 lb. building paper, or Brick veneer with a minimum space of 1″ between the brick and the weather-resistive barrier.

Vapor Retarders in Warm Climate Zones 1, 2, 3, and 4

The IRC does not require or prohibit the use of vapor retarders in climate zones 1, 2, 3, and 4. NAIMA recommends using either a Class II or III vapor retarder in these warmer climate zones and avoid the use of Class I (very low perm) vapor retarders. Kraft-faced batts can be installed in all climate zones.

In the warmer climate zones, installing vapor retarder with a very low perm rating on the interior of a wall assembly can lead to moisture problems. Even vinyl wall paper, which has a low perm rating, can induce moisture problems in warm, humid climates where hot, moist conditions tend to drive moisture into the wall from the outside of the building.

In very warm, humid climates, if a vapor retarder is used, NAIMA recommends installing it to the exterior side of the wall.

Climate Zones

NAIMA has developed a map showing thermal recommended levels of insulation for various climate zones. They are based on recommendations from the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and the International Energy Conservation Code (IECC). The IECC is the model building code for the United States. To learn more about recommended levels of insulation, click here.

Source: www.NAIMA.org

1. Can this insulation actually save me money? And if so, how much?
2. What kind of insulation is environmentally friendly and people friendly?
3. What is the downside of keeping my current insulation?

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